Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Finse 2009

2009 is the first time I came to Finse for kiting as I do it regularly since - yet its not the first time I went there. So how did it all start?

Mika with Ozone Access II 10m2 on Finsevatnet, Finse, Norway
The annual trips to Finse - how did it start?

How it started


In 2006 I had just completed a crossing of Spitsbergen from Ny Alesund to Longyearbyen, including ascents of the two culminating points 'Perriertoppen' (1712 m)' and 'Newtontoppen' (1713 m). I was still under the strong impression of this expedition and longing for another polar adventure.

At the same time, Aurelie, a friend of mine from the times in the ski touring club at the university of Grenoble was running a field campaign on the french polar ship 'Marion Dufresne'. And Mika, whom I did not know yet, was there as a field guide for guests on that same ship.

Polar traveller.
Aurelie insisted that there was a guy I should meet.


Back home, Aurelie insisted that there was a guy I should meet. When I wondered why, she explained that Mika was about to cross Greenland and building a team for his project. I must have responded that Greenland was all flat. And that I would never even think about a crossing, unless it was with kites, and south to north. I wasn't that serious of course, as even the classic east-west crossing appeared a monstrous challenge to me.

Camp on the Hardangervidda plateau. North face VE25 tent.
Mika was about to cross Greenland and building a team for his project.
Thierry, Mika and Francis. Hardangervidda 2007.


But this is exactly what he is up to!

Fast forward: April 2007. Hardangervidda, Norway.

Hardangervidda 2007


We had our own perspective of things. Mika and myself had sound experience in polar travel and were confident about the technicalities of the trip. Thierry had already made a number of Kayak expeditions, and Francis is an expert paraglider pilot. We only had to learn to kite! Only. At this time, kites often were still considered simple pieces of equipment rather than a culture on its own in the polar community. This is why, in 2007, Mika organized a trip to Hardangervidda to do our homework.

Hardangervidda. Paris expedition sled and ice blue plastic pulk from Snowsled.
Hauling our gear on the Hardangervidda plateau. We were testing different
sleds: The orange 'Paris expedition sled' and the new 'ice blue plastic pulk'
from Snowsled Polar, our final choice.

Our  kiting skills were still rather basic, yet we were preparing to repeat the south north crossing of Greenland from Narsaq to Qaanaaq with kite and skis. A Norwegian team had stunned the polar community in 2005 making this crossing in record time. We absolutely wanted to do this trip.

Kiting, Hardangervidda.
Mika who had already some experience, gets the hang of it.

At this time, we were often still pulling the kites, rather than the opposite.

Kiting, Hardangervidda.
Francis was a natural. The paraglider experience certainly helped.

And sometimes the kites would fly us, instead of the contrary.

Hardangervidda. Progression with kites and sleds.
Francis. In the back, Thierry with two pulks in catamaran
configuration.
We had followed a steep learning curve. By the end of the trip we were able to progress together as a group and we were roaming the plateau with our kites and sleds.

Hardangervidda and Finse 2008


We had made the decision. In May 2008 we would attempt a south north crossing of Greenland from Narsaq to Qanaaq in a team of three: Mika, Thierry and myself. Yet there were still a lot of things to learn and equipment to test. We chose Finse as a starting point and stayed several days there to learn to handle our new Parawings and take advantage of the spectacular landscape.

Ozone Access II 10m2 on Middalen Glacier, Norway.
Kiting on Middalen glacier. We were beating upwind and uphill.

In 2008 we also made our first ascent of the Hardangerjokulen with kites - beating upwind and uphill on the Middalen glacier. (We later learned that this is not recommended, and that Blaisen and Austdalen are preferred).

Ozone Access II 10m2 on Hardangerjokulen, Norway.
The first tim we kited up to the summit of Hardangerjokulen.

And we set out once more to a short trip across the plateau.

Progression in driving snow.
Walking was still an option. Mika in thick driving snow. At least at this
moment it was not raining.

The weather was up to its reputation. A reason while many teams, historically and today,come here for training before a big polar expedition.

Hardangerjokulen seen from Smyttenutane.
Smyttenutane, view of Hardangerjokulen from the south.

Sysenvatnet from Smyttenutane.
Sysenvatnet from Smyttenutane.


Finse 2009

In 2008 we had realized our dream with Wings over Greenland. There were no new plans for another big expedition yet, but the desire to experience the freedom to kite in the seemingly endless open spaces we don't find here in the vertical world of the french alps.

Mika Acess II 10m2, Hardangerjokulen.
Mika with his Access II 10m2 on the slopes of Hardangerjokulen.

We had only limited time, and we were tired of dragging the entire equipment for an itinerant trip though countless airports. This year we would simply stay there and take advantage of the possibilities around Finse!


Mika Acess II 10m2, Middalen.
On Middalen...

Kiting on Middalen.
Myself on Middalen.

At the foot of Hardangerjokulen.
Mika at the foot of Hardangerjokulen.
It seems like having acquired a new habit.






Sunday, June 15, 2008

Wings Over Greenland 2008

We made it - our debrief


After 2 years of preparation, we sucessfully crossed the Greenland Icecap from Narsaq to Qaanaaq in a team of three: Michael Charavin, Thierry Puyfoulhoux, and Cornelius Strohm. 
Itinerary of Wings Over Greenland 2008.

 We are now back in France since some time and the expedition seems already far away. Still we only slowly realize that we actually made it. A dream has come true for us! We have crossed Greenland from south to north, 2240 km over the icecap from Qaleraligd Fjord close to Narsaq all the way up to Bowdoin Fjord and Qaanaaq. During the whole trip we only walked for 60 km - all the rest was covered using the wind with our Ozone kites and one additional skisail. Thanks to the kites we were able to cover 2215 km sea level to sea level in only 29 days and 5 h. And Narsaq to Qaanaaq in 31 days. Being lucky with our choices for the access to and the exit from the icecap, we were able to do the whole trip without further assistance, except boat transport from Narsaq to the starting point. And of course except the cup of tea offered by Lou and Mark when we met them as well as a Finnish and a German expedition at Dye 2 - it would have been a pity miss this one.


Long distance kiting is a pleasant way to travel on snow. The incredible power of the kites made us completely forget the weight of our pulks until we had to haul them again ourselves at the end. And it made us forget how far it actually is. We forgot the time: once beyond the arctic circle it was the wind that ruled our rhythm. Only when our shadow had again nearly completed a full tour of us, did we realize that an other day had passed. We enjoyed the exotic pleasure to ski directly into the huge low sun - right north of us. Or in streams of driving snow with an orange glow in the low light. Or through a white ocean of frozen waves. Or just into white clouds of an endless nothing. Or through a dream of dry powder.... 

We had a good time out there kiting! Thanks to all who made this possible for us!




Charging the boats that would bring us to Qaleraligd Fjord,
starting point. 


On the way to Qaleraligd Fjord.

Hauliong up the gear. In the background: Qaleraligd Fjord.

Ozone Acess 10 m2. In the background, the
coastal mountainsof southern Greenland.

Heading north. Our skis: Movement Powpow and Movement Gladiator.

Camp on the ice.

Good going with our Beringer Skisails.

Beringer Skisail.

Contrary to common belief, the biggest problem in Greenland,
are low rather than high winds.

Harvesting the sun. Solar power for our GPS, VHF radios,
satellite phone, cameras, video camera and MP3 players.

Take off of the mighty Yakuza in an almost non-existing breeze...

... was always a moment of tension. Figuratively and literally 

Yakuza 12 m2 on loooong lines. A majestic sight.

Lines of 40 m, 60 m, or 40 m + 60 m = 100 m ...

... on handlebars. Not everyones taste, yet I liked it.


Others preferred a good wrestle with the Skisails.

Break during a long day.

DYE II - a relic of cold war in the middle of nowhere.

There are still provisions left. Best before 1989 -  when the 
station was abandoned.

Enemy missiles anywhere? Are you still protecting us ?

The radar engineer had a last cup of coffee,
before the end of cold war. USAF technical
manual, surely a good read.

Entering "THE DOME".

More skisailing.

More Yakuza.

Midnight sun. "Deuxieme gratuit". Optical illusion.

Thierry and his Yakuza.

Michael and his Yakuza.

Sastrugi ...

... big sastrugi. Many of them. Actually 800 km of Sastrugi.

Camp.

Cleaning the tent.

Ajouter une légende





Reaching Bowdoin Fjord ivolved loosing 800 vertical 
metres on grass gravel and rock.

Pulkas once on Bowdoin Fjord.